Since the late 17th century, the distant sight of these golden-colored roofs has meant a welcome end to many a journey. Pilgrim or tourist, when our eyes finally rest on the magnificent structural center of all things Tibetan, we know we have in some sense made it home. Climbing up the Marpori (Red Mountain) and the endless stairs and ladders of 13 storeys, we reach His Holiness' quarters at the top. We see Lhasa as it was in His eyes, and we are inspired to start again.