Our time in Samye was among the sweetest in Tibet. The journey to the temple -- driving, then crossing the Yarlung Tsangpo by ferry and bouncing on a rough track in the back of a truck -- put some distance between us and the security fears we felt most strongly in Lhasa. We arrived in late afternoon and took a walk around the quiet grounds in the deepening evening, the last light glowing on the beautiful walls of the temple.